In the Kitchen with Chef Erick Williams from Virtue

Chicago is getting back in the kitchen! From patio seating and limited indoor dining to carryout meal kits or to-go cocktails, the Chicago food world is building back up again after months of closed doors. Chefs like Erick Williams are opening their kitchens and firing up their skills to continue to serve the hearts and stomachs of our great city. Chef Williams leads the team at Virtue Restaurant in Hyde Park {1462 East 53rd Street, Chicago; 773.947.8831}, and he has been working hard to support his staff and his community since Virtue first opened its doors. That has continued over the last few months, and will always be a part of the ethos at Virtue. Williams talked with us about his summer menu favorites, what he wants people to feel when they dine with him, and how we can continue to support restaurants in Chicago…

Tell us about some of your earliest food memories.

My earliest food memories were of dishes and flavors that provided comfort, and were prepared with care and hospitality by loved ones. Most vividly, German chocolate cake, seared Parker House sausage, head cheese and crackers, pecan pie, lima beans, and chicken and dumplings are all foods that created those comforting memories for me then, and still comfort me today. 

How did you bring Virtue to life in Chicago?

I brought Virtue to life with the overall goal of creating a celebrated Black space, and one that embodies the things in my life that mean the most to me – My values, good food, nostalgia, art, and teamwork. 

What did you want to create when you opened Virtue?

Virtue was created to evoke the warmth of my great grandmother’s home. I want people to feel that same kind of love, kindness, and hospitality every time they visit. 

What are some of your favorite menu items for summer?

I have a hard time selecting specific dishes! Certain fruits and vegetables can be sparse for Midwestern chefs during the long winter months, so I get overly excited about interacting with my friends that farm and the bounty that they cultivate. From green tomatoes or zucchini, to strawberries and other produce that thrive in the summer months, I look forward to celebrating that bounty each year.

Some of the menu items I would share as an example of that excitement include:

Green Tomatoes with Shrimp & Leroy’s Remoulade. It’s made with Nichols Farm Zucchini with Raisins, Benne Seeds, & Chocolate Mint.

Cauliflower with Cashew Dukkah Spice, Root Cellar Vegetables, & Rice. This soulful dish is one that I really enjoy! It has a lot of heart as a vegetarian dish!

Collard Greens & Smoked Turkey. This is a dish that I took a lot of care in readapting from my Grandmother’s recipe.

Mac N’ Cheese-Pork Chop with Egyptian Grains, Pickled Onions, & Ham Jus

Coconut Rice Pudding with Nichols Farm Strawberry Jam & Candied Almonds. The rice for this new dessert is sponsored by The Lee Initiative, which is committed to helping reset the supply chains for farmers and restaurant operators who are committed to sustainable food. The LEE Initiative’s Restaurant Reboot Relief Program is committing at least $1 million to purchasing food from sustainable farmers in 16 regions and living that food directly to restaurants in those areas. The restaurants that have hosted relief centers in those areas will be receiving the food and helping to select which other restaurants will be receiving the food as well. 

And how does your beverage program support the menu?

Just like our menu, our beverage program is unpretentious and delicious. From wine and beer, to the cocktails we craft, to the spirit-free options that are on our menu, we want the experience to evoke comforting memories.  

What is something people might not know about being a chef?

Being a chef takes a lot of strength, drive, passion, and a devotion. It shouldn’t come as a surprise that with those responsibilities comes a lot of stress. Many chefs are so passionate about what they do, that often times it causes anxiety or enhances pre-existing anxiety disorder or other conditions. Like in any line of work or lifestyle, it’s important for chefs to take time for mental health and wellness.

How do you work with other local chefs and restaurants throughout the city?

Chicago might be a big city, but it’s a small town – I strive to support causes and organizations that are headed up by local chefs as much as possible, and they graciously reciprocate that same support to me. Most recently, chefs in Chicago have really rallied together to be at the forefront of serving their communities. From feeding and fundraising for first responders, to the important dialogue surrounding the African-American community, we want to use our voices to advocate for justice. In June, myself and nearly 30 other chefs joined together for a rally in Pilsen aimed at uniting the African-American and Latinx communities. The bond that Chicago’s chef community has makes it possible to for us to enact change and show vital support to those who need it most.  

How can we as a city continue to support Black and minority communities and businesses, not just now, but always?

You simply need to show up, in every sense if the phrase. There must be a greater commitment to activism. It would not be a heavy lift for communities to commit one day per week to activism. That can happen through writing, speaking out, shining a light on injustices, mobilizing, planning and donating time to nonprofits and creating art, to name a few. Communities near and far must make everyone aware of the options that are local. Plan dates and business meetings at these locations. Share the information verbally and through social media. If we define the word support the instructions are the same for the black community as they for any community. There isn’t a new or special way to support black anything.

What does it mean to you to be a Black chef, especially in Chicago?

It means I must work harder than the rest of the world for equality. I work to win each shift and each day. I have pride in my work, I am committed to community, team and culture. I work to be recognized a great chef. It’s great to be viewed as an example of the potential for young black talent; however, our careers should not be categorized by race.

And how would you describe the Chicago food world overall?

I would describe it by highlighting three important attributes: passionate, progressive, and innovative. These qualities are what make our dining landscape so diverse and so enjoyable for locals and visitors alike.

Aside from your restaurant, what are some spots you enjoy visiting in Chicago?

There are so many diverse places to dine here in Chicago. The Loyalist is phenomenal. Monteverde is also an incredible spot. Kumiko is a killer cocktail bar that’s also on my list.  

Interview by Kaleigh Glaza | Market Editor